Read the wrist he already has
You almost certainly have the answer already and have not looked at it. Does he wear a watch now? If it is a metal bracelet, buy a bracelet; if it is leather, buy leather. If it is large and sporty, a slim dress watch will feel like a correction rather than a gift. If he wears nothing at all, that is information too — go smaller and lighter than you think, because a first watch on an unaccustomed wrist feels enormous. The Skagen Signatur here, and the titanium-cased Melbye on our Skagen page, exist for exactly that person.
How much is the right amount
More than you would spend on a colleague, less than you would spend on your own father. Overspending is a real risk here in a way it is not with other recipients: an expensive gift from a son- or daughter-in-law can read as an attempt to impress, and it puts him in the position of having to reciprocate. The $100–$300 band does everything you need it to. If the occasion is a genuine milestone — a retirement, a seventieth — the under-$500 tier is fair game and the Swiss option on this page is the one to reach for.
The maintenance question decides more than style does
Two of the picks here run on light. An Eco-Drive charges from any light source and never needs a battery changed, which for a man who is not going to take a watch to a jeweler is worth more than any design decision. A mechanical watch is the opposite gift: it needs wearing, resetting and eventually servicing. Give an automatic to a father-in-law only if you know he would enjoy the mechanics — if you are not sure, you have your answer.
The one to skip — and why
Skip an engraved caseback on a first gift to a father-in-law. Engraving is a lovely thing between people who are already close, and a slightly awkward one from someone still finding the register — it also makes the watch impossible to return or exchange if the size or style is wrong. Save it for a milestone, when it will land properly. Our engraving guide has the wording for when that day comes.